Adventures in Southern Urbanism

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Monday, May 15, 2006

Switzerland

Day One



At 6 AM I stumbled off the overnight flight from Mumbai to Zurich. Luckily, I already had a pass for the train from the airport to the main station downtown, so in my sleepy state I didn't have to figure out any new transportation systems. I knew my hotel was not far from the station, so I walked it rather than paying for a cab or judging which tram I should hop on. It was no problem as the streets were still deserted. I actually arrived at the Zic Zac Rock Hotel too early, even though I'd arranged for early check-in. I killed an hour by wandering around the medieval portions of the city (yes, the walking tour recommended by my Lonely Planet guidebook).


Supposedly the largest clock face in Europe

Back at the Zic Zac I showed myself to my room, and what a room it was. Actually, it felt more like a submarine berth. I could touch both bulkheads at the same time. I had my own sink and shower, but the toilet was shared by the hall. Once cleaned and dressed, I made it back to the main station (BH) in time to activate my multi-pass and figure out the train listings, then venture to my noon appointment. Once done, I had the afternoon off. "Yes, Switzerland is a new country for me, but why stop there?" I asked myself. Soon I was on an eastbound train for Liechtenstein, because why the hell not. See Google Earth map below.


Switzerland Day One

On this ride I confirmed my suspiscion that Switzerland is disgustingly beautiful. And efficient. I fell in love with the public transportation system. Between the scenery and the rails, I'd be content riding 24 hrs a day with my nose pressed to the window. Particularly beautiful was Walensee, an isolated lake skirted by the rail. Wow. Sorry I didn't get a picture. I was too busy day-dreaming.



From Sargans, a short bus ride took me to Liechtenstein and its tiny capital, Vaduz. I quickly zipped into the museum/post office/customs to get the voluntary passport stamp. I then hiked up the mountain to the Prince's castle. I then hiked down, and had dinner and a beer on the main drag. So, even though I only spent a couple of hours there, I feel that I can say I've "done" Liechtenstein. Mike, don't mess with me. In regards to their relative areas, 2 hours in L-stein is worth 13 years in the USA. Do the math!!



Sculpture in central Vaduz

I got back to Zurich after dark. I hit the sack after one Guinness at a place called Oliver Twist.


Most of Liechtenstein

Day Two


Switzerland Day Two


Got up mighty early and headed down to Zug for two school visits. Beautiful, all that. Yadda, yadda, yadda. Got back on the train and headed to Basel for another school visit and a private meeting with a family. Once done, I had just enough time to buy a poster at the museum before it closed. There was a big Holbein exhibit up, and the poster featured his tarot card designs (see one below). I would later leave this poster at my hotel (dammit!).


Dance of Death

Back in Zurich, I had no energy to wander far in search of food. I gravitated towards a Mexican place near the hotel where I heard native English being spoken. When I found it was coming from three young ladies, I invited myself to join the table (not wanting to eat alone). Their names: Megha, Magda, and Meaghan - shit you not, I checked their business cards. Megha was Indian by way of the UK, other two American. They get sent to different cities every three months to collect data for Forbes magazine. How's that for a job (except when you get sent to Oslo)? After dinner we went for a couple drinks, but I had to bow out early due to the approach of another very full day.


I spent more time in stations than hotels.

Day Three


Switzerland Day 3

Yep. Got up bright and early, again, this time taking all my luggage with me and checking out of the Zic Zac. Beautiful cross-country train voyage, blah, blah, blah, passing through Berne, Lausanne, alongside Lake Constance and into a glacial valley. From Aigle I took a cog train (i.e. it's very steep) up to Leysin, presented, then cogged back down. Train to Bex. Cog it up to Villars. Presentation.


The cog. Check out that angle.


The mountain schools

Then, much needed beer with the university counsellor in the - get this - bar owned by the boarding school. I ate at a Mexican place again. I don't know what it is with the Swiss. Mexican restaurants everywhere. This being a ski town, and it not being ski season, my hotel was deserted. Felt a bit like Jack Nicolson, but there was no axe in my room.


You know, another castle with the Alps in the background. Yawn...

Day Four


Switzerland Day Four

Need I say that I woke up early? This time I took a bus diagonally down the mountain from Villars to Aigle, where I hopped back on the train. Appointment #1 was in Rolle, on the way to Geneva. Charming place, if I hadn't had to drag my luggage with me. The next appointment was in Geneva in the afternoon, so I had time to check into my hotel before meeting the counselor at the train station.


Another advantage of the train - reading time

After appointment #2 I was free until the next afternoon. I decided to wander the city and unwind. Guess what I found? See picture three.





J.J. Rousseau


Spring Bros. Irish Pub

There was an American bartender, an American quiz-master, and a whole bunch of other friendly folks. I stayed through trivia and placed second. The winners were impressed, so they shared their prize, which was a bottle of vodka. Stayed through closing, then hit the clubs with the after-hours crowd. Much fun.

Day Five

The last two presentations - I nailed 'em and got out of Dodge. Caught up on sleep on the train back to Zurich, so much so that I slept through Zurich and almost made my way to Germany, until a ticket-checker nudged me awake. Oops. Reverse. Zic-Zac again. Crash. Up early and back to the USA.


Back in Zurich

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